I mean, yeah, they won't work nearly as well, but neither do N Pro-Trac tires compared to modern rubber. Chrysler used to have special drag racing springs that had extra short front halves that were clamped together tightly.
Like having slapper bars without the bars. Chrysler did a lot of neat stuff in the 60s. I put a set on my 65 mustang. Sure they seem hokey but they made a dramatic improvement on those ancient leaf springs.
OK then! Never saw a set and I grew up in the 70's era when there was a whole parking lot full of Chevelles at the high school I went to. But I parked in the 1st gen Camaro lot so maybe there was one I didn't see. Only leaf spring cars were seen with them where I was. Also note that the forward end is solidly mounted to the frame in the second pic. What Starburns posted are slapper bars, because the snubber out at the end of the lever arm was not secured to the car, and didn't touch the suspension when at rest.
Under load, it would rotate into contact with the front leaf spring mount, 'slapping' it. All of the MoPars had shorter front sections that rear, but the Direct Connection Super Stock springs were based on the A body spring length, which was shorter than the B and E body front sections.
They also had different spring counts between left and right, and would run half leaves that would only go from the axle forward on performance models. The downside is, they work a lot like ladder bars Ah, I didn't watch the video. Made a set sized for the S10 that didn't make it to the challenge last year. Hoping I still get an opportunity to use them. Some manufacturers just let them hit the spring, but that is the weak point of the spring we are trying to save Many springs have been bent by incorrect snubber placement.
So either get the right traction bars for your particular model, or you can lengthen or shorten yours to work correctly. The distance from the rubber snubber to the spring eye can usually be adjusted. Taller or shorter snubbers can be bought or you can cut them shorter or add a spacer to make them longer. The less gap you have between the snubber and the spring eye means the bar will react more quickly but less aggressively.
It will also make the ride much firmer. The more gap you have the slower but more aggressive the traction bar will react. This also results in a much softer ride. In drag racing there usually isn't any gap between the spring and the snubber because you want the traction bar to work as soon as you get on the gas.
A good set of springs that are correct for the car should do the same thing Do you have jet extensions in the secondary fuel bowl? If not it sounds like you may need them. Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since Old F--t, Huh. The design concept of the SS springs is to make them extra stiff enough in the first place.
With even more biased design stiffness on the passenger side, where its needed to prevent unwanted axel rotation. If your hanging slapper bars on SS springs all your doing is adding extra ballast weight. IMO mike. Its odd Sam. My 60's went down about. My previous best was a 7. I was having sum problems with the car wandering on the big end in both lanes all ten passes. They ground the track recently and theres not much traction on the big end. The car is also about 60 lbs heavier than the last time i ran it.
I got sum of it back gutting it more,but between the rollbars ,rear fire wall ,and the heavy slapper bars its heavier. The car is deadly consistant though in the 60'. I was getting either a 1. Now i just need to motor her up with more cam and stiffer valve springs. Only problem i had was the tach quit working on the first pass. I kept trying to fix a wiring problem between rounds ,but it was the tach. I ended up buying one at the track from a vendor and got raped ,but i had to have it.
It sucks not knowing what rpm your doing a burnout at ,launching at ,or trying to shift at. Car ran good though I'll bet you will see no difference.
No extensions on the jets. In that on vid where it shows my car from the rear ,im not the car sounding like its getting in and out of the throttle its the guy in the other lane.
He was having bad traction issues all day with that thing. He had a blown big block in it and it drowned mine right out in the vid Proly had a 3 spd trans behind the with lower gears as well. What more is there to prove??? Quote: Proly had a 3 spd trans behind the with lower gears as well.
Air is air. Trust me it pulled both of them off the ground evenly a few inches. Unless about 40 people were pulling my cord. I felt the front tires hit every time as well.
No it didnt get on the bumper ,but thats not the slapper bars fault. I dont have the gears, stall, or motor for that kinda show Slapper bars are a cure stiffens the front half of the leaf springs for a problem weak front spring halfs winding up , just like pinion snubbers BTW, is your car hesitating at all on the initial hit? If so fix that and see how much your sixty ft. Such negativity. Quote: Such negativity.
I think they could help him at his level but he didn't give us before and after numbers? While I think any forward progress is good, I agree with most of the posters about it helping but only at the level you're at now.
Something else too How sure are you that the springs are good? That might explain the "wandering" you feel in your seat. Not traction, just not good suspension control at higher speeds. That is a sing of bad springs too. The deal with the lack of traction bars on mopars comes from having a snubber that's properly set up and traction bars, which can interfere with each other. I also agree that a Glide with 4. I think you would go faster with 3 gears providing you can actually hook it with the extra torque that gives.
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh Now you tell me what you know.
Joined: Oct 7, Posts: Profile Page. Rex Stallion , May 1, Joined: Feb 28, Posts: Profile Page. Back when I had some on my 57 chevy, worked fine. I didn't have enough cubes under the hood to make them hit the springs. The real quick measurement I took seemed like the common 28 inch should work. I will have to look some more. Joined: May 21, Posts: Profile Page. Dont get in a hurry.
TooManyFords , May 1, Joined: Dec 8, Posts: 22 Profile Page. I have the full caltrac setup on my 65' falcon, but you could also look at competition engineering's slide-a-link setup, it was a setup I was going to go with, they list for mustangs , but you could email or call them to see if they have something for your application.
Ok I have a question about the slapped bars. I got a new set off of a friend and when I stuck them under the car because of the shock mounting plate hanging down I can only slide them so far back and the snubber will be hitting right on the front spring eye.
But there is a steel box that covers the spring so it would actually be hitting on the steel bracket directly underneath the front spring eye. Is that ok? Joined: May 16, Posts: 5, Profile Page. I ran some on my coupe for a while. They worked ok. I made some cal-track style bars that work and ride a lot better. Kerry , Mar 8, Joined: Jun 21, Posts: 2, Profile Page. Before slappers, traction masters were the hot ticket.
Period correct, pre
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